DRESS REHEARSAL: muslin tutorial part two

The wearable muslin is finished! This pattern is relatively easy to make and will work nicely as the base pattern for my Daenery's dress. Read on for the second half of the tutorial. The first half can be found here.

Step seven: Stitch and press darts in side pieces using the technique outlined in step one (my original photo was too dark so I had to retake after I had sewn the side pieces on, apologies for the confusion!) 

Step eight: Sew the side pieces to the front and back pieces.

Step nine: This is only for the purpose of making the original pattern, and it is easier now to see how the rope embellishment will replace the bow. Prepare the three bands by folding in half lengthwise right side facing inwards, tucking the ends in and stitch 3/8" (1 cm) from the raw edge. Turn them right side out. Take the longer bands and pin onto the front  3/8" (1 cm) below the section seam and along the attachement line on the side and back pieces. The folded edge of the band should be pointing downwards. Stitch bands down  and then press them upwards where they will meet the section seam. Sew the edges down at the back and centre front.

Fold the bow piece so the ends meet together at the centre and stitch. Wrap the knot band around the centre and stitch in place. Sew bow onto the centre front of the dress.

Step eleven: Put in the invisible zip by first pinning the right hand side of the zipper face down onto the right centre back piece edge, with the top of the zip at the top of the back piece. Sew in place with an invisible zip foot and get as close to the coil as possible, the needle should go to the left of the coil, with the coil in the right groove. Close the zipper and pin in place to the left side, matching up the top and bottom. Sew in place, this time with the coil in the left groove and the needle to the right. Stitch the top excess edges of the zip down. Then breathe because the zip is in!

Step twelve: With right sides together sew the centre back seam from the bottom of the zip to the lower edge hem.

Step thirteen: Stitch armhole facings right sides together at shoulders and side seams. Pin and sew facings to armholes, right sides together. Trim and notch seam allowances and turn to inside. Press and sew edges to seams. 

Step fourteen: There are many ways to hem but this is the way I hemmed mine. Fold hem under 1/2" and press, fold over again 1/2"  and topstitch 1/4" from the bottom of the dress.

Et voila! The muslin fits well so I will stick with a size 38. I can see now that the rope detail will be easier to hand stitch onto the bust and neckline edges rather than into the seams giving a cleaner finish with no bulky seams. I can't wait to bang out the Daenery's version now I have had this trial run. Off to cut out the fabric! 

COMING SOON: daenerys dress tutorial